1. Gear
2. Sleeping Arrangements
3. Schedule
4. Journal
   1. Day 0: Grand Canyon Caverns Inn
   2. Day 1: Backpack to Havasupai Campground
   3. Day 2: The Confluence
   4. Day 3: Chilling
   5. Day 4: Backpacking Out

Gear

The following gear is what I brought for Havasupai as a solo traveler; includes some lessons learned about packing too much in some areas and not enough in other areas.

Item	Purpose	Link
Granite Gear Blaze 60L Pack	Backpack to carry everything in	https://amzn.to/43kMzjt
Zempire Zeus 2-Person Tent	Tent to sleep in	https://amzn.to/4acsoqh
Western Mountaineering Ultralite 20 Degree Down Sleeping Bag	Sleeping bag	https://amzn.to/3Tf9HLt
Therm-a-Rest ProLite Plus Sleeping Pad	Sleeping pad buffer with ground	https://amzn.to/3uYadWr
ENO DoubleNest Hammock	Hammock to chill in during the day	https://amzn.to/3Vd6RJy
Chair Zero Camp Chair	Chair to sit in	https://amzn.to/3TeL1CZ
BioLite Alpenglow 250 Multicolor Lantern	Light	https://amzn.to/3Tgr6Dw
Black Diamond Spot 400 Lumen LED Headlamp	Headlamp	https://amzn.to/48Kimvi
Benchmade 535GRY-1 Bugout Drop-Point Fine-Edge Knife	Knife for opening things / defense	https://amzn.to/3Txk52P
MSR PocketRocket 2 Stove	Boiling water	https://amzn.to/4a6dhyl
HydraPak 3L Seeker Collapsible Water Container	Water storage	https://amzn.to/4arcxnZ
Outdoor Products All Purpose Tarp	Tarp for under tent	https://amzn.to/48PYDu7
MSR IsoPro Fuel Canister 3.9 oz.	Fuel to boil water	https://amzn.to/43aJ8fh
Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .3 Medical Kit	First aid kit	https://amzn.to/49K3deI
Gear Aid Tenacious Tape Repair Tape	Patching tape	https://amzn.to/4c8Ds9z
TOAKS Titanium 750ml Pot	Pot to boil water in	https://amzn.to/3v98qxD
PEAK Refuel Meals x4	Food	https://amzn.to/3TgmTQe
Coghlan’s Tent Peg Mallet / Puller	Drive/remove tent spikes	https://amzn.to/43fzWpU
Darn Tough Hiker Boot Full-Cushion Sock x2	Socks	https://amzn.to/3PjqA6J
Hat	Sun protection	https://amzn.to/4ceIAJd
Smelly Proof Reusable Heavy Duty Storage Bags	Food storage	https://amzn.to/49OT68t
Backpacker’s Pantry Meals x2	Food	https://amzn.to/3TxcWzy
SaltStick FastChews Chewable Electrolyte Tablets	Hydration	https://amzn.to/3IydRte
Epic Bars x6	Food	https://amzn.to/48KeAC8
That’s It Fruit Bars x4	Food	https://amzn.to/3uYjPAv
SunBum Travel Sunscreen	Sun protection	https://amzn.to/3TvPRNo
Portland Bee Balm SPF 15 Chapstick	Sun protection	https://amzn.to/3VeSCnU
Tom’s Travel Toothpaste	Hygiene	https://amzn.to/3v74AoG
Toothbrush	Hygiene	https://amzn.to/3PdDfbp
Cottonelle Wet Wipes	Face wipes	https://amzn.to/48RtDtG
lululemon Men’s Metal Vent Tech Short Sleeve Crew x2	Shirts	https://amzn.to/3v6cFdk
Long sleeve sleep shirt	Shirts	https://amzn.to/3TbOeDi
Thermajohn Long Johns for Men, Thermal Underwear	Underwear	https://amzn.to/3Pjwyo5
Wigwam Merino Comfort Hiker Socks	Socks	https://amzn.to/3TeOUb3
Calvin Klein Men’s Underwear x3	Underwear	https://amzn.to/4c3x4jQ
RAB Men’s Electron Pro Down Jacket	Jacket	https://amzn.to/3v8S5cm
Kuhl Deceptr Pants	Pants	Kuhl Website
Merrell Men’s Moab 3 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot	Boots	https://amzn.to/3wMNJZ0
Ten Thousand Session Short	Shorts / Swim Trunks	Ten Thousand Website
Chaco Men’s Zcloud Sandal	Shoes	https://amzn.to/49LIHuo
Large Gonex Compression Packing Cube	Clothing / Food Storage	https://amzn.to/3TbIBVG
CamelBak Crux 3-Liter Water Reservoir – Hydration Bladder	Water storage	https://amzn.to/48SSJsh
Outdoor Products Quest Day Pack	Daypack	https://amzn.to/4a5G0n6
Sensyne 62″ Phone Tripod & Selfie Stick	Camera tripod	https://amzn.to/43kZguD
Energizer USB-C Portable Charger, 20000 mAh Power Bank	Electronic charger	https://amzn.to/3V9l2Q3
Waterproof Phone Pouch	Electronic protection	https://amzn.to/43cJB0k
Sony Alpha 7R III Camera	Camera	https://amzn.to/3uXEp3X
Sony G Master 16-35mm Camera Lens	Camera lens	https://amzn.to/43u1Pe9
Sony G Master 24-70mm Camera Lens	Camera lens	https://amzn.to/49KYaL9
Lowepro Adventura SH 160 III 4L Shoulder Bag	Camera bag	https://amzn.to/3wMvt1D
$50 cash	Fry bread / Supai cafe	–
Codependent No More: How to Stop Controlling Others and Start Caring for Yourself by Melody Beattie	Book	https://amzn.to/3PgHQJS

A few notes on the gear above:

• I’ve only been backpacking once before and with a little more experience probably could have fit my water and camera bag into the Granite Gear pack. Carrying two backpacks around was a pain in the butt.
• I carried my clothes in the Gonex bag and after making camp, hung the bag from a tree with my food in the Smelly Proof bags. DO NOT LEAVE FOOD ON THE GROUND at the campground – there are a lot of rodents.
• There are no showers at the campground – the Cottonelle Wet Wipes are a must to clean your face at the beginning/end of the day.
• Chaco sandals were awesome for all the water crossings. I went all the way to The Confluence and back in them – they are more than capable for long journeys.
• I went during the tail end of winter when there weren’t a ton of bugs present; didn’t need bug spray at all. Be smart and keep your tent zipped up as much as possible. If in summer, I’d bring bug spray since you are next to water the whole time.
• Thermal underwear, long sleeve shirt, and Wig Wam socks were only for sleeping in. I recommend having a dedicated “clean” sleeping outfit to keep yourself sane in.
• Underwear was for backpacking days. I mostly wore the Ten Thousand shorts for hiking days because they are amphibious and perfect for all the water crossings. If you buy them lined you can go commando. They dry really quickly.
• Bring cash if you want fry bread. Trust me the fresh cooked meal is worth it after a few days of freeze dried.
• If you go between February – April, it is Bighorn Sheep mating season. I made due with a 16-35mm and a 24-70mm camera lens. There were times when it would have been awesome to have a 70-200mm or 200-600mm lens if wildlife photography is more your game. More to carry though.
• Bring a headlamp with a red light for nighttime. Don’t be the person ruining other people’s astrophotography with your bright white light!
• Bring a book or some form of entertainment for night time.
• I went in Winter when it gets cold at night and in the morning. If going in summer, probably don’t need the down jacket. It provided good sun protection and when placed in the stuff sack doubled as a pillow at nighttime.
• Zempire Zeus 2-Person Tent is a good size to stash all your gear in at night. It’s a little heavy though – a Nemo One Person tent would be ideal, but is pricey.
• Waterproof phone pouch doubled as my lanyard for my permit. There is a rope swing too that you’ll want this for to take some awesome pictures from!

Sleeping Arrangements

At time of writing, the day before your trip down to Havasupai, you have to obtain the permit at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. I ended up just staying here that night. The food is pretty good at the restaurant!

During your stay, you’ll be sleeping at the Havasupai Campground or for an extra fee, you can stay at the Supai Lodge in the village of Supai At time of writing, it was $400 for a campsite and like $2,000 for a room at the lodge. It’s worth noting that the lodge is a two mile oneway walk to Havasu Falls and almost three miles oneway to Mooney Falls.

Schedule

0. Check in at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn
1. Backpack to Havasupai Campground
2. Hike to The Confluence
3. Swim, rest, read, fry bread, rope swing
4. Backpack out

Journal

Day 0: Grand Canyon Caverns Inn

Check in at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn along the historic Route 66 was a breeze. Make sure you arrive before the Havasupai check in desk closes (5pm at time of writing) or you’ll have to wait until they open the next day (8AM at time of writing) to secure your permit to be on the Havasupai reservation! When you walk up to the counter, you fill out a form, show them your printed confirmation email, proof of account, and photo ID, and they hand you three very important items that you want to keep in a safe place the duration of your stay:

• Wristband
• Tent tag
• Paper copy of permit

They check the wristband when you’re on the reservation! I placed mine in a clear waterproof pouch lanyard that I wore around my neck the whole time I was on the reservation. This made it easy to access when prompted to show the permit; kept it safe anytime I got around water.

After checking in, I drove up the road to the restaurant and entry way to the cavern tours. The burgers at the restaurant are sourced from locally raised cattle and were pretty tasty! The hotel has an underground Caverns tour, including a hotel room you can stay in underground, but alas this attraction was closed. Last year a group was staying in the underground room overnight and the elevator back up broke. One of the members of the party was unable to scale the stairs; the attraction has been closed ever since. A little sign hanging in the entryway to the hotel claims they plan to be open by September of this year. The lack of urgency to fix what is obviously the main draw (besides the check in spot for those going to Havasupai Falls) of this charming hole-in-the-wall was foreshadowing of what was to come.

After eating, I brought my Tempurpedic topper in to the room, took a shower, read a little, and was asleep by 8PM.

Day 1: Backpack to Havasupai Campground

Woke up today at 4AM to a flurry of snow. First real backpacking/camping trip is bound to be fun now! I slept ok last night – my experiment of bringing in the Tempurpedic topper to my hotel room worked great; I felt right at home. After a cold shower and one final check of all my gear, I was out the door by 5AM, before the sun was even up, gitty with excitement for the journey to come.

The drive from mile marker one to mile marker 30 was a little sketchy with all the snow whipping around. I was relieved when the flurry broke as I approached the Havasupai trailhead. It’s worth noting that I didn’t get stopped at the ranger station, as the place appeared to be vacant. Pulling up to the trailhead, I was in awe as the canyon landscape reminiscent of the Grand Canyon came into view in the wee morning twilight.

Putting the pack on for the first time, it struck me that I’m still green around the ears and definitely packed too much. My first attempt at clipping my daypack to my Granite Gear lead to a pack that was way too heavy. My daypack swung a few times, hitting me in the butt, before I bailed on the idea and decided to wear the daypack on the front of my chest. One hiker affectionately referred to me as “the two backpack guy”. The descent down into the canyon is gorgeous, even as you sidestep horse and donkey droppings every 5 feet.

Once on the floor of the canyon, the trail winds through red and black accented rock that was carved out over a very long time by running water. It was two miles or so into the trail before a Havasupai ranger rode up on his horse to check my wristband and permit. He scanned it with his smartphone and rode off, on to the next group of hikers. Walking away, I began daydreaming of what life must have been like in this neck of the woods at the turn of the 20th century. Given how remote it is, I wonder how long this place held out before succumbing to a more modern way of life. The thought crossed my mind of how fierce the negotiations must have been with the US government to get this land and the traditional way of life back; what amends must have been made to keep Supai under Native American jurisdiction. The walk to Supai follows a winding path through the canyon where you’re surrounded by red and black rock wall faces.

Part of the experience of making the trek to Supai is yielding to the herds of pack mules being driven by members of the Havasupai tribe. Every so often on the walk, a roaring herd sound begins off in the distance. Soon after, a high pitched whistle or “Yaw!” sound follows as the Havasupai member driving the pack on horseback comes into view. The mules may be purchased for an extra fee to transport the load of hikers who don’t feel like carrying their own pack. The dichotomy of the modern cowboy was on display here too as one Havasupai tribe member was blasting NBA Youngboy while he was herding the mules.

As you get closer to Supai, the flora begins to change rapidly from high desert to lush green, evidence of the life carrying river that runs through the village. On the outskirts of town, a sign comes into view advertising the Fry Bread, which is to die for! As you enter the town, signs everywhere are displayed requiring hikers to mask up for the entirety of their time in Supai. The signs also point out that photography of any kind is strictly forbidden inside the village.

On the outskirts of Supai, most of the buildings are boarded up. Trash, horses, and dogs are found in almost every yard. The smell of horse manure is fresh and at times overwhelming. There’s a stillness in the air that only comes with extreme sadness. I only saw one person, a man from the Havasupai tribe, standing on his porch glaring at me. As I walked by him and on to the next house, even the donkeys and the horses seemed to be glaring. The shepherd dogs too. This land was taken from these people by force by the National Park Service; the village is all that remains of the Havasupai tribe. The tribe used to roam the land from the canyon I find myself in all the way up to the steppes where the hilltop trailhead begins, migrating with the seasons. They have been in this area for over 1000 years and one hundred and fifty years ago had their ancestral stake reduced to less than 500 acres. It wasn’t until the 1970s that they finally got the area with the waterfalls back. Multiple generations removed from that theft, the sadness and carried forward trauma lies so heavy in the air, it feels like you could cut it with a knife. I’d be glaring too. An oxymoron is that tourism is arguably what provides sustenance to the tribe now.

As soon as I turned the corner, into the heart of town, modern amenities came into view. Apricot trees can be found in some of the yards amongst the trash. It’s March and they are beginning to blossom. The elementary school is quite nice, on par with the school down the street from my house. The school was probably the nicest building, other than the police department. Supai Lodge looks pretty nice too. You can see where a lot of the tourism money goes. I think that says a lot, that modern technology is invested into the future and into the security of the people who live here.

The only other modern amenities I can deduce are Direct TV dishes on every home and the smartphone in hand of every Havasupai member in the gift store and cafe. Cell service is intermittent with Verizon saying I’ve been SOS or on 3G extended network ever since I left the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. The other modern amenity that I can’t forget to mention is the roar of the Airwest helicopter engine all through the canyon for the really really wealthy or lazy people who want to see the attractions but haven’t walked 10 miles in one day in decades. There’s a post office. I imagine the mail is flown out as well as the trash. It’s truly one of the most remote places I’ve ever been in my life and has been a humbling experience approaching on foot. I’ve been remote places via boat or plane and that doesn’t quite have the same effect as walking to a place so far removed from the modern world.

It’s worth noting that the Supai Cafe, the creators of the world famous fried bread, don’t actually start serving fried bread until 11AM. I got there around 1030AM and ordered an English muffin sandwich with eggs, bacon and cheese. It was pretty similar to a McDonald’s egg McMuffin and delicious after walking eight miles with my inefficient double backpack setup! They take card too, cash only is for the fry bread stand outside of the campground, behind Havasu Falls. Hikers are required to leave their backpacks outside before going in to the cafe; it was striking observing how on edge all the Caucasian people appeared to be inside the cafe looking out the window at their packs. This must be what it feels like to be a minority visiting a primarily Caucasian neighborhood. I stopped in at the gift shop and bought a sticker of a traditional Havasupai shield. Hopefully it protects me while I’m here.

An interesting phenomena is the village of Supai requires all visitors to wear masks. I can’t help but wonder if there’s a bit of double incentive to this rule. On the one hand, COVID-19 had a disproportionately devastating effect on the Native American population. This place is so remote I can imagine providing proper healthcare during a pandemic would be a logistical nightmare. On the other hand, the mask mandate also marks who’s a visitor, as none of the locals wear masks.

The journey from the village into the campsite is awesome. After departing the village, you wind through a canyon along Havasu Creek, passing Little Navajo Falls and Hidden Falls.

You cross over a makeshift bridge made of 3/4” plywood held together by nails before passing the fry bread stand. As soon as you head down the hill from the fry bread stand, the breathtaking Havasu Falls comes into view on your right.

10 miles in and the view is soo worth it! A little further down the hill lies the campground. The ranger station and emergency evacuation meeting point is the first structure you see on your left. Further up the path is Fern Spring, which provides clean drinking water to the campground. The Havasu Creek runs right through the middle of the campground. Campsites are secured on a first come, first served basis and can be found on both sides of the stream. There are five restrooms in the campground so no matter where you land you’re not far from the loo. I opted to walk the half mile to the outskirts of the campground before picking my spot.

Setting up camp was a breeze, I was able to score a coveted spot just above Mooney Falls that still had a bit of a rock wall built in to shield against the wind. Naturally, the universe had an important lesson in store for me: DON’T WALK AROUND THE CAMPSITE BAREFOOT. Rocks are sharp and the skin on our feet is soft – I tore open a callus on the bottom of my foot, ten minutes after successfully setting up camp! Thankfully I brought a first aid kit and treated the wound with antibacterial wipes and antibiotic ointment at the end of each day. The only downside to my campsite is the half mile walk back to the drinking water source at Fern Spring. I’ve gotten to know some of the other groups of campers by virtue of making the trip to and from the spring multiple times. There are people from all over the map here at Havasupai campgrounds. It’s interesting to hear the different languages being spoken and the makeup of various groups. Many young people are here with their friend(s) or partner. Some brought three generations of family out. Some packed way, way too much. The “readiness” levels of different groups is an interesting sight to behold. The guy across the stream from me had tents, hammocks, chairs, a stovetop, even Christmas lights strung up around his campsite; I thought I had overpacked! Wanderlust and appreciation for the waterfalls and crystal blue water seems to be a universal language.

I ended the day by climbing down the ladder to the base of Mooney Falls. The descent is slippery and treacherous but very doable as there are chains and even donated gloves at the top and bottom.

Standing at the base of Mooney Falls, basking in the mist coming off the rock face is why people make the 10 mile journey out here. Words and pictures simply don’t do it justice.

After meandering at Mooney for a bit, I continued onward to the first crossing on the way to Beaver. I was tired from carrying the packs and reminded myself that I still had two days to go. A cold plunge and I was on my way, filled with bliss at the sound of running water in the gorgeous natural environment.

Back at camp, I took maximum advantage of the view of Mooney Falls while I ate my freeze dried meals. Having walked over 15 miles in one day, I treated myself to two of the packets with the falls flowing in the background.

Still amped up from the excitement of being in one of the most gorgeous places I’ve ever been to, I couldn’t sleep the first night. This is one of the most remote places in the continental USA and the stargazing did not disappoint! Patience was a virtue as I waited for the various headlamps and tent lights to die out as people got ready for bed before taking the photo below on my iPhone:

Not bad for a smartphone camera. Turning the exposure all the way up and putting the camera in Night mode was the secret to getting the photos to come out halfway decent. It still doesn’t top what was seen with the naked eye. Top of my TODO list is learning how to use my dedicated camera for astrophotography before heading to Utah in a few weeks!

Day 2: The Confluence

Day two I made the 16 mile roundtrip all the way to The Confluence where Supai River meets the Colorado River. I don’t know when I’ll be back or what kind of physical shape I’ll be in next time, so I figured might as well do the longest hike. There is a point where the Turquoise blue water of the Supai meets the Green-brown of the Colorado, hence the name “Confluence”.

When I got to The Confluence there was a boat parked in the shade on the Supai side filled with a friendly couple from Winslow, AZ who coincidentally bought their boat secondhand from a guy in Tucson! We shouted pleasantries at one another for a bit before I headed out. It would be fun to return to this point in the future via boat or raft.

The hike out to The Confluence starts by following the same trail out to Beaver Falls. Technically the trail takes you out of the confines of the Havasupai Reservation and into Grand Canyon National Park. This area is a “no man’s land” jurisdiction wise as the Havasupai Tribe will not come to your rescue and most likely none of the National Park rangers would know to look for you there. It’s three miles one way to get to Beaver Falls and another six one way to get to The Confluence.

An ominous warning is hand painted onto the sign on the trail past Beaver Falls stating that you should not embark on the journey to Confluence past 1030AM. Luckily I had plenty of time to complete the arduous journey!

I embarked on this adventure in early March, smack in the middle of Bighorn Sheep mating season; was fortunate enough to see ten Bighorns on the journey to and from The Confluence. It was a blessing to see the bighorns scrambling up the rocks of the canyon face, splashing about as they crossed the stream, and being more-or-less at ease with my presence. These animals are beautiful, athletic, and gentle; one Bighorn was lazily napping along the trail and allowed me to pass without a fuss (although he did snort at me as I passed – my heart was jumping out of my chest at this point). Here are a few shots I was able to get of these majestic animals in their natural habitat:

The trail is super remote as you are 20 miles from Supai and another 70 miles away from old Route 66. I went solo in sandals and was sketched out a few times as there are 10+ river crossings (some are waist high running water), a rocky descent down into the canyon; the trail was overgrown and hard to follow, especially on the way back. I haven’t hiked the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim yet, but I can imagine this is what it must feel like. Seeing how the lighting in the canyon changes from early morning to late afternoon was a real treat. The canyon walls rise a couple hundred feet above you on other side as you follow the winding turquoise-blue stream, contributing to a feeling of being minuscule.

I was hungry after backpacking/hiking a marathon over the last two days and was jonesing for Indian Fry Bread. I ran the last half mile from Mooney Falls through the campground to the fry bread shack setup above Havasu Falls, only to be disappointed as they literally sold the last fry bread when I walked up. It’s hard to be in a bad mood when you’re surrounded by such awe inspiring natural beauty, so I went back to camp and made due with two freeze dried meals. I fell asleep to the gentle roar of Mooney Falls behind me.

Day 3: Chilling

Day three I awoke with a dull pain in my left Achilles Tendon. My plan was to double back to Beaver Falls and get some close up photos, but I decided a day of rest would better prepare me for the 10 mile hike out on day four. A cold plunge for breakfast to wake up was in store. As I made my way to Havasu Falls in my swim trunks, the sun rising above the canyon wall in the background, it was cold. Upon arrival to Havasu Falls I sat on the bench, contemplating my early morning decision to get in the water. The water itself is not what scared me – it was getting out of the water. Anyone who plunges in nature knows that the getting out part is maximum discomfort. As I was fighting the thought monster, three women came storming down the bank, stripped down to their bathing suits, set up their phones on camera mounts, and jumped right in! The scene reminded me of the time I went for a plunge in the Grinnell Glacier melt where all the other men were moseying around on the bank afraid to put their feet in; as soon as I jumped in, they all mustered up the courage to plunge their feet in. Naturally, the testosterone kicked in and not to be outdone, I joined the women in the water of Havasu Falls. Annie was kind enough to Airdrop me a scene from her phone that was already setup on her camera mount.

It’s funny to think of the ancient neural pathways programmed into men when we see someone doing something we want to do, but we are afraid to do in that moment. Hormones signal the brain: fear be damned I will not be outdone! After my morning plunge, I went up the hill hoping to score Fry Bread (the sign says the shack opens at 930AM), but I was reminded that operating hours are more of a suggestion than a hard-and-fast on the reservation. No biggie, I kept it moving up the path to Hidden Falls.

The name suits the location well as the path to the following vantage point cut across the stream, over a waterfall, and included a section where I had to hang precariously off a rock without falling into the waist deep stream.

This trail reinforced a feeling of gratitude doing this journey solo that I had while on the trek to The Confluence. It’s one of those trails where a second party acting as the voice of reason would most likely disqualify the experience in the middle of the journey. On my way out, two hikers were making their way down to Hidden Falls. I warned them about the section where you have to hang off the rock and bid them farewell. A few hours later I ran into them and one of the women was soaking wet – we had a good laugh as she recounted falling off the rock into the water! No one stays mad for long in this desert paradise.

After Hidden Falls, I walked all the way back to my campsite, miffed that the Fry Bread shack still wasn’t open, two hours after the supposed opening. I setup my lightweight camping chair with a view of Mooney Falls and spent an hour reading.

I’ve been reading Codependent No More by Melody Beattie, a thought provoking book that has been cutting to the core for me. I’ve been distraught since the messy break up with Lam; have come to realize that I am a deeply codependent individual. I’ve done a lot of work on moving past various addictions, but still haven’t been able to integrate the codependent parts of my nature into the bigger picture. I lacked awareness; reading this book has opened my eyes into the behaviors and thought processes underlying a widely prevalent condition amongst my family, friends, and choice in romantic partners. It seemed like a natural accompaniment to my first solo backpacking trip and thus far has not disappointed.

Thoroughly roasted from the early afternoon Arizona sun, I put my chair away and decided to make one last attempt at scoring fry bread. A half mile and a big hill later, the shack was still closed! Determined, I began unfolding plan B: walk all the way back to the village to get some from the cafe. The universe had other plans as the women manning the shack came into view, making their way across the plywood bridge. Eureka!! I followed them to the shack and waited patiently for them to get the grill fired up. From missing out by one order the previous day, to the first order of the following day, I felt blessed that a higher power was looking out for me (I don’t think my Achilles would have been happy about two more miles!).

Oh. My. God. Y’all. The fry bread is DANK. I don’t know if it’s because I’ve been living off freeze dried meals for two days, but this fry bread slaps. Initially I placed an order for the Indian Taco (fry bread, bean spread, ground beef, cheese, tomato, lettuce) then said “fuck it!” and ordered a plain fry bread to dress up with honey, powdered sugar, cinnamon, and Nutella. There’s something about greasy, sugary food while you’re camping that just hits different.

After rolling down the hill full of fry bread, I headed back to my tent. I ran into Annie from the morning plunge who informed me of the hidden rope swing behind the submerged picnic table by Mooney Falls. Having crossed the three mile hike to Beaver Falls off the agenda, I decided to see what this rope swing was all about. Nothing brings out the inner child like a good rope swing over a waterfall into a deep body of water!

I made the descent down the ladder to Mooney Falls and fumbled around looking for the rope swing. At last I found it, setup my camera mount and began to make my way towards the rope. I scaled the tree and stood with the rope in one hand, looking down at the roaring falls below and felt intense fear wash over me. Hiking to The Confluence solo and walking one foot in front of resting wildlife, 10 miles away from civilization is something I’d consider to be in my wheel house, swinging on a rickety rope over a roaring waterfall is quite another. I was either going to feel very alive or I would hit my head, break my foot, and/or die. Eventually I came to terms with both outcomes and went for it.

Spoiler: I didn’t die! It was such a blast I ended up going three more times. My inner nine year old was beaming ear-to-ear. I’m in a chapter of my life where I am learning to love myself and nurture the inner nine year old. Experiences like swinging on the rope at Mooney Falls remind me of the adventurous little kid still inside underneath all the acquired layers necessary for survival in the adult world. After the rope swings, I decided to swim at the base of Mooney Falls before making my way back up the ladder.

Thoroughly spent and adrenaline drained, I headed back to my tent where I typed up a majority of this post, made a meal, and fell asleep one last time to the sound of Havasu Creek and Mooney Falls flowing in the background.

Day 4: Backpacking Out

Day four. Hike back to the parking lot. I woke this morning to the sound of chirping birds and Mooney Falls / Havasupai Creek flowing in the background. I got my recorder out to try to capture it. I’m not sure the recording will do it justice just how peaceful this place really is. I can see why Native Americans aren’t interested in the white man’s world. A world of showing up to work on time, working eight hours day after day after day out of some twisted sense of duty. I think the real meaning of life is just being one with nature. Learning to become one with our internal dialogue and to be at peace with it. The physician (I didn’t even get her name) and her husband next to me at the campsite had some wise words of advice. I asked her, I said “if you could go back and tell 29 year old you one thing, what would it be?” She said “take advantage of every opportunity you get. It’s not the journey, it’s the people you meet along the journey that make this life worth living”. I need to do better at being social. I think Lam was on to some real deep rooted wisdom when she told me I need to find my people. You find your people, you find yourself. It makes sense as the people you surround yourself with act as a mirror, reflecting your highest values.

I’m happy I did this trip solo. It’s a huge confidence booster. I’ve walked 50 miles in four days. Slept outside under the Milky Way for three nights straight. Prepared my own meals. Made and packed up my own camp. Jumped off the rope swing at Mooney Falls. Went all the way to The Confluence solo in sandals, passing six inches from sleeping bighorn sheep along the way. There were moments of internal terror. There’s no denying that. But again, I think this trip showed maximum growth is obtained when you face the terror head on. We’re capable of so much more than our minds sometimes allow us to see.

Stopped in the cafe for a breakfast sandwich and ended up waiting an hour before reneging. Operations at the Supai Cafe are on their own timeline. The cooks were just blasting music, cracking jokes, and laughing the whole time. I walked away peeved that I waited an hour for an egg, a slice of cheese, and two slices of bacon between a sliced English muffin. I didn’t stay mad for long as I kept it moving past the line of people waiting to take the helicopter back to the hilltop trailhead. Pro tip: TAKE THE HELICOPTER. At time of writing, it was only $150 to take the helicopter out and makes a five – six hour journey on foot like a 10 minute exhilarating ride.

The hike out is one of the most intense hikes I’ve ever done. The first ten miles you gain like 1000 feet elevation, but the last mile you gain 2000 feet elevation! With a forty pound pack on, it’s no joke. My heart and quads were DYING on the final set of switchbacks up the hill. I was so stoked to finish the hike:

The Havasupai were selling Powerades for $5 each in the parking lot, I bought two and was on my way. This trip was my Arizona version of the Into The Woods allegory. I learned a lot about myself and what I really desire from life. I’m eternally grateful to the Havasupai Tribe for providing space, hospitality, and a brief four day glimpse of what a slice of heaven looks like. On to Sedona at the end of this week!